I asked my new friend here in Sao Paulo, fearless Courtney Fretz, to blog about her experience driving here so far. Here is her guest blog:A typical day of driving in Sao Paulo with the other 7million cars (a record hit in May!):
Step 1: load all valuables in the trunk of the car to discourage would-be opportunists from doing a wealth exchange with you while stopped in traffic. Valuables can go in the backseat if you have blacked-windows or bullet-proof doors, but for the rest of us, the trunk is recommended. Next, mentally prepare for the experience ahead with traffic - either a battle or liberating video game depending on your point of view - and take to the streets.
I enjoy the drive to work - the rules of the road are more or less a free-for-all. Do you want to make a right-turn from the far left lane (3 lanes away)? No problem. Do you want merge across 3 lanes to move faster? No problem. My favorites are the people who wave their hand out the driver-side window indicating that they are coming into your lane. It's not a request. They are kindly advising you if you don't give-way they will hit you, and it would probably be your fault. Compared to driving in the US, aspects of this experience can be liberating; no hard-and-fast rules limiting your movements, if you get lost its not a problem to make sudden turns from distant lanes, and the traffic moves so slowly that its hard to get in accident at 5mph.
But like any video game there are foes looking to end your game. The motorbikes 'legally' get their own space between the traffic lanes. When in moving traffic, its necessary to stay exactly in your lane and only change lanes when you've checked both sides to ensure you're not going to add to Sao Paulo's traffic mortality rate. However, motorcyclists are kind enough to honk continuously alerting you to their presence. When stopped at lights or in traffic you also must create lanes between traffic lanes, and if you don't give them room, they WILL kick your car. The buses operate by the "I'm bigger and therefore you must yield to me" school of thought; this is not a joke, they do not look before they merge / turn / swerve. (Fortunately, given the aforementioned rule about merging any time or place, you can merge out of the bus' way relatively easily.)
Potentially the biggest barrier to surviving Sao Paulo driving is yourself. The Brazilian concept of 'tranquilo', similar to 'Island Time' in the Caribbean or 'Mañana', is very useful to adopt when driving. You never know how long it will take to go from point A to point B - doesn't matter what time, what day, what season, or what route. It's a surprise every time you depart. As long as you keep the attitude that you'll arrive when you arrive, there is no reason to get stressed (which probably affects general Brazilian attitudes about meeting times in general).
So when my GPS asks me every night, sitting in traffic, if I want to "change to pedestrian mode," I can only laugh and turn my music up (but not too loud to drown out the motorcycle horns).